350z / G35 Coupe Fuel System Installation (STAGE 1) Note: Installation is intended for qualified individuals. This manual is not fully detailed, as some operations should be familiar for an experienced VQ35 Technician. Note: No fittings come tightened from CJM. Properly torque every fitting in the entire system. Some fittings come preinstalled, but they are not torqued. Do not over-torque fittings as component damage can occur. Aluminum parts can strip out and be damaged by over-torqueing very easily. NOTICE: CJ MOTORSPORTS IS NOT LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES TO THE VEHICLE THAT THIS SYSTEM IS INSTALLED ON. THIS IS A RACE ONLY KIT AND IS INTENDED FOR EXPERIENCED INSTALLATION AND MAINTANCE WITH FREQUENT CHECK-UPS AND INSPECTION. FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM FAILURE OR LEAKAGE MAY RESULT IN ENGINE DAMAGE OR ENGINE FIRES THAT CAN DESTROY THE VEHICLE OR RESULT IN DEATH. INSTALLER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR SECONDARY INSPECTION OF ALL COMPONENTS FOR MANUFACTURING FLAWS BEFORE INSTALLATION. You may wish to purchase a new pump seal o-ring from the Nissan dealer, as they sometimes expand to become useless, therefore delaying reassembly. If you find any missing steps, please let us know so that we can update this page and improve on it. Step 1: Disassembly Make sure that the car has less then 1/4 tank of fuel before starting the installation. Leave the car sit for several hours before beginning installation. This is to reduce fuel pressure held in the system and allow for cooling of the engine. Remove Strut Tower Bar. Remove Engine Cover. Remove Air Intake Tube that attaches to throttle body. Disconnect Throttle Body electrical connector. Optionally remove throttle body. Remove EVAP Purge Solenoid Vacuum Line. Remove EVAP Purge Solenoid Mounting Bracket Bolt and Electrical Connector. Then thread the bracket bolt back into the plenum by itself so that you do not loose it. Remove the final vacuum line connecting the EVAP Purge Solenoid to the metal pipe attached to the Fuel Pressure Damper Bracket. Remove Brake Booster Vacuum Line from plenum top. Remove Misc brackets from plenum collector and reinstall the bolts by themselves so that you do not misplace them. The bracket shown in the first picture will need to be unbolted from the timing chain cover as well. With a rag in hand, remove the bolts attaching the fuel pressure damper and inlet hose from the fuel sub-tube. Be prepared for fuel leakage, as the system may still be under pressure. Pull the damper upward very slowly while surrounding the area with a rag to prevent fuel spray. Not a whole lot of fuel will come out, but it may come out under pressure and spray. From underneath the vehicle, by the passenger side exhaust manifold, disconnect the fuel hose that leads to the damper you just removed. You will need to slide off the safty cap and then you can disconnect it. Fully remove and discard or store away the fuel feed hose with damper, it will no longer be used. Remove all 18 bolts attaching the upper plenum. Follow REVERSE numerical order of this illustration. Remove the first throttle coolant hose shown by the arrow in the illustration. You may wish to plug it with a bolt if it is leaking. Slowly lift the plenum off by the front and notice the final coolant hose on the bottom under the throttle. Remove that hose (and plug if needed) and place plenum aside. Be careful with the gasket, it cannot be taken off yet. NOTE: From this point on, it is very important that you do not drop any hardware or tools. Should you drop something small into one of the intake ports, and the intake valves are open on that cylinder, you are at risk of losing something inside the engine that will not be retrievable without complete engine tear down. Remove the PCV hose from the plenum collector as shown by the lower arrow. Then remove the 2 bolts holding the fuel pressure damper and tube bracket as shown by the 2 upper arrows. Remove the bolts in the opposite order shown in the illustration. Set aside the gold PCV channel cover. Set aside the upper plenum gasket. Lift the plenum collector off the engine carefully. Cover the 6 intake ports with tape to prevent anything from being dropped inside. Remove all 4 bolts holding the fuel rails to the intake runners. Carefully lift the fuel rails and injectors off the intake manifold. Look for any seals or o-rings that may have come off the bottom of the injectors and stuck into the 6 injector ports of the intake runners. If any came off, then place them back on their corresponding injectors. Enter the interior of the vehicle. In a 350z, the fuel pump access panel is located in the large compartment behind the passenger seat. Remove the floor of the compartment by popping it up in the front and pulling it out. There will be a sheet of sound deadening material to set aside. In a G35, the pump access panel is located underneath the back seat on the passenger side. When you reach the access panel, rotate the 4 clips 90 degress clock-wise. Disconnect the harness connector and the fuel feed tube's quick connector. Have a towel ready to absorb some fuel from the connector when it is removed. If excessive fuel drips from the connector, it will remove the corrosion protection coating on the top of the gas tank. You can zip-zie a dry rag to the connector to collect remaining fuel as you push it aside to work in the fuel pump area. Remove all 6 fuel pump assembly metal retainer bolts and set aside the metal retainer ring. Gently lift the pump assembly up an inch or so and get the black sealing o-ring out of there immediately. You can gently get the O-Ring over the top of the assembly with very little stretching by using care. The O-Ring will expand and be unusable if it contacts gasoline. Gently navigate the assembly out of the fuel tank. Handle with care to prevent bending or damaging the fuel level sensor sending unit or float arm. Be aware of the fuel siphon hose that is connected to the fuel pump assembly on the side that faces the rear of the vehicle as you lift it out. When the assembly is a couple inches out, you can remove the siphon hose and drop it into the tank. If needed, you can rotate the assembly 90 degrees counter-clock-wise to ease removal of the siphon hose. Place a towel under the pump assembly before carrying it away from the gas tank opening to prevent spilling gasoline in the vehicle interior. With the pump assembly outside of the car, the dissassembly phase is complete.
Step 2: Fuel Pump Modification and Installation Un-snap the black fuel temp sensor on the bottom of the can and unsecure its 2 wires from the canister. Remove the lower surge can off the assembly by releasing the snap lock and sliding them apart (pay attention to how it slides on/off to make reassembly easier). Take care not to damange the level sensor as there are 2 wires attached to it. You can pull the two terminals off the level sensor and set the entire can aside if you wish.
Drill a .0430" diameter hole behind the electrical plug on the top of the assembly. While holding the assembly towards a bright source of light, you will be able to see through the plastic. You want to make sure that where you drill the hole will leave enough room on the underside for the bulkhead nut to thread without hitting anything while turning it.
Notice that on the underside of the assembly, around the hole that you drilled, you will need to use a dremel or other grinding tool to eliminate some support webbing. You need to remove enough so that the sealing washer can sit flush on the plastic and the bulkhead nut can spin freely with a socket on it. Insert the bulkhead so that it will be facing the front of the vehicle when reinstalled (parallel with the back side of electrical plug) with a sealing washer on the top and bottom. Lubricate the rubber section of the washers so that they do not tear when tightening. Thread the bulkhead nut all the way down snug by hand. While holding the top of the bulkhead with a wrench, use a deep socket to tighten the nut.
Remove the plastic cap for the OEM fuel pressure regulator housing (4). It is the white cap at the lowest point of the assembly, right next to the fuel pump cap. Pull the regulator out, but do not discard the large black o-ring (2) or white plastic spacer (3). Assemble the regulator bypass fitting as illustrated. Put the retaining clip (4) on the bottom of the bypass fitting, and then thread in the 90 degree fitting (5). When tightening, you may wish to hold the bypass fitting with pliers wrapped in electrical tape to prevent excessively damaging it. It does not need to be extremely tight. Install the bypass plug assembly. Do not forget the o-ring that is supplied with the fuel system (1) or it will result in an internal pressure leak. Snapping in the cap will require effort as you compress the top o-ring. Make sure that both o-rings and the spacer do not fall off while assembling. Once it is snapped in, route the supplied hose as shown. You will need to hold the top of the bulkhead with a wrench while tightening the hose fitting to it. Use the supplied clamp to secure the hose to the 90 degree fitting.
Carefully replace the fuel surge can, level sensor wiring, temp sensor, and temp sensor wiring. When sliding the can on, it might have some resistence with the bypass hose. However, once the can is down all the way, it should freely slide up and down (it is self-height adjusting for multiple application use in different fuel tanks). The final step is required only when using a Walbro 255lph fuel pump. The large amount of return fuel at idle will cause fuel pressure to spike due to restrictive internal plumbing of the pump assembly. This return pressure can be relieved by enlarging the swirl jet orifice. Remove the yellow swirl jet from the outside, bottom corner of the fuel can. It pops out downward. Do not break it, as it is NOT replaceable. Find the pinhole outlet and enlarge it to .070" - .100". Reinstall the part.
The fuel pump assembly can now be reinstalled just as it were removed. Do not forget to reconnect the siphon hose as you lower the unit into the tank. Take care in routing of the siphon hose as to prevent it from interfering with the fuel level sensor float arm. Reinstall or replace the tank sealing o-ring.
Step 3: Fuel Rail and Injector Installation First install the injectors into the rails. Use a light coating of oil or other lubricant on the top injector o-ring to help insert it into the rail injector bosses. Be very careful to make sure the entire o-ring inserts and that it doesn't catch and get torn. When inserting the injector, position it so that the electrical clip is facing the flat side of the rail (which will face the valvecovers).
Be sure to have a lower o-ring installed into the intake manifold before installing the rail/injectors assembly. You may wish to lubricate the lower o-rings to assist. The longer rail fits on the passenger side of the engine with the flat side facing the valvecover. Use ONLY the included stainless bolts to hold down the rails. Torque sufficiently. NOTE: Taller than factory injectors will require taller fuel rail spacers. RC Engineering includes .455" spacers with their injectors for the VQ35DE. The second picture here has an arrow pointing at the rail spacer to illustrate. If you are using OEM length injectors, be sure that the OEM rail spacers are installed.
Step 4: Fuel Pressure Regulator Installation Install the regulator in the location shown. Before making installation permanent, set upper intake manifold parts on to make sure the regulator position is clear of the throttle body inlet neck and the EVAP solenoid. Also make sure there is enough clearance for any gauge or sensor you plan to use in the 1/8 NPT pressure port on the front of the regulator. Install included gauge now if desired.
Step 5: Hardpipe Adapter Installation The hardpipe adapter is used to adapt the factory 5/16 hardpipe into an AN style connection. This allows you to install performance plumbing to the OEM hardpipe. The hardpipe adapter kit consists of 3 parts. Part #2 will be inside parts #1 and #3 in your package. CAUTION: This step involves extra care to prevent injury or fire. When cutting the hardpipe, remember that there is still gasoline in there. Wear eye protection and do not generate any sparks while cutting.
Seperate the parts into 3 individual items. Installation requires you to cut the factory hardpipe. You want to cut it just before the bend that goes upward towards the headers. Cut it immediately before the bend to give yourself as much straight section as possible. The 2nd picture above shows where it will go (The arrow indicates location, but the photograph is taken of a Stage 2 system with upgraded hardpipe). DO NOT CUT THE WRONG PIPE, make sure your not cutting the EVAP pipe. After cutting the pipe, you need to trim back about 1.5" of the plastic coating. This is most easily done with a razor blade. Use it as if peeling a carrot, starting at the cut edge and sliding down the pipe for the 1.5". After removing the coating, you need to prepare the pipe for use. Use a file to make the edge straight and perpendicular. Then use deburring tools or sand paper to deburr the end. Once properly deburred, part #2 should easily slide on and off. Once deburred, begin installation by sliding item #1 down the pipe facing the direction illustrated in the first picture above. Then slide on part #2 facing the direction shown in the picture, with the externally tapered edge first. With items #1 and #2 loose on the pipe, install item #3. It will thread into item #1. You want to firmly press item #3 up against the cut edge of the hardpipe while you tighten #1 against it. This will crush the compression fitting (#2) and create a seal. You need to make sure that you do not accidently compress item #2 while its not fully on the hardpipe. This fitting takes a LOT of torque to seal. You are better off to start mildly tight, and if it leaks during pressure testing then you can torque it more. Pay lots of attention to this union for leaks during the pressure testing phase. If correctly installed, this adapter will be a leak free solution that will last forever. Be careful not to kink the pipe near the adapter, and do not ever open it later unless removing for good.
Step 6: Hose Installation Step 7: Purge Debris and Pressure Test Step 8: Install Intake Manifold and EVAP Line Step 9: Bleed Coolant Step 10: Set Pressure Step 11: Tune Vehicle
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