350z / G35 Twin Pump Installation Notes

This is not a complete installation guide, this is just some notes to help the installer.

Wiring Information

You will need to cut the level sensor wires off of the factory assembly. Cut them as close as you can to the top to preserve as much length as possible. You will crimp one of the provided terminals to each wire, then insert them into the connector on the inside of the pump assembly.

The factory assembly has a temperature sensor. This is not used in the CJM assembly. To prevent a Service Engine Soon light, you will need to purchase a 2.4K Ohm resistor and wire it in-line (outside the tank) to replace the sensor.

Carefully route the slack on all wires inside the assembly. You do not want them in contact with any sharp edges that would wear away at the insulation, such as a hose clamp, as the vehicle vibrates.

You will need to use the factory fuel pump power wires to activate a pair of relays that you will use to power the twin pumps. This means running a decent gauge power wire from the battery to the relays and then to the pump connector.

NOTE: The Fuel Temp Sensor delete has ZERO impact on your tune or engine running. It is used only for scanner diagnostics and the factory computer does nothing with the information from it other than trip a DTC if the fuel is too hot or too cold. For more information, reference the factory service manual.

Summarized Recommended Wiring Parts List:

Terminal Installation

Note: Use a Volt Meter to make sure you are inserting terminals in the correct port of the plugs. You do not want to accidently reverse polarity of the pumps or send 12v to the level sensor.

CAUTION: While the plugs that go on the inside and the outside of the wiring bulkhead are identical, the one that goes inside the tank must be prepared. The rubber dust seal behind the terminals and the slider dust seal must be removed. If they are not removed, they will expand and extrude into chunks of rubber to clog your pump pickups. Please verify that the connector plug you are going to put on the inside of the bulkhead does not have any rubber inside or out. Also, the sliding safety lock needs to be removed from the connector that is being used inside the tank. This should have already been done for you, but please verify.

Remove the blue Terminal Lock by
pulling outward with needle-nose pliers.

This is what it looks like with the Terminal Lock removed.

Insert crimped terminals into the back of the connector as shown.
Either flat side can face up.

Slide the terminal in until you hear/feel the click.

These connectors feature a safty lock that prevents them from being pulled off.
This photograph shows the unlocked position.

This photograph shows the LOCKED position.
The connector cannot be removed in this position.

Plumbing Information

The twin pump assembly comes with no plumbing outside the tank. There are several ways to plumb this assembly based on the vehicle owners needs.

To adapt the CJM Stage 1 or Stage 2 return fuel hose to the twin fuel pump assembly, you can use Earl's part number 921106ERL or a similar product.

The OEM fuel filter is located inside the OEM pump assembly. Since you are removing this OEM pump assembly, you may want to install an inline external fuel filter.

The pump output fittings on the top of the twin pump assembly are -6 and facing straight up. Therefore you will need a pair of 90 degree -6 hose ends. Then you will need to run those 2 lines under the car and go from there. If you are adapting this to a CJM Stage 2 kit then you can use two more -6 hose ends of whichever angle you prefer. From there NOS brand part number 17840NOS can be used to Y the pair of -6 hoses into a single -8. The -8 end of the Y could be threaded directly into the back of the CJM hardpipe if you prefered. Or you can run a -8 In/Out inline billet fuel filter and then go to the hardpipe.